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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.